I was cycling along and whaddya know but ahead of me was a tractor. A tractor! I hadn’t seen a tractor in months. Wow! A tractor!!! Kenya had all sorts of golden nuggets: Paved country roads, food that was more than starch and mangy meat, decent English comprehension, even buildings ten stories high. Kenya has had a stable (if autocratic) market orientated government (kind-of) since independence. You see that.
Though, buildings are largely in disrepair, the roads are potholed and youth are abundantly unemployed. Lake Victoria is tragic. There used to be ferries that went to Uganda and Tanzania. Today it’s carcinogenic. I camped in a dilapidated lakeside hotel, comfortable with a cold beer in a cushy chair. An Indian businessman told me, “All the fish are gone. It’s pathetic – these people don’t even care.” And there’s little else to do but sit back, enjoy and await the next racist comment.
Note: Eldoret is the home of Kenyan Olympian marathon runners and there’s a neat dirt track you can check out. Early mornings, you see folks running. It reminds me of home.